This January’s Milan Menswear Fashion Week feels different—and not just because it’s the first in decades without the legendary Giorgio Armani, who passed away at 91 last September. But here’s where it gets emotional: as the fashion world mourns his absence, other iconic designers like Ralph Lauren, 86, and Paul Smith, soon-to-be 80, are stepping into the spotlight, reminding us that legacy isn’t just about the past—it’s about evolution.
Paul Smith’s Saturday evening show at his brand’s Italian HQ was a masterclass in blending nostalgia with innovation. And this is the part most people miss: Smith himself took center stage, mic in hand, narrating the stories behind each piece with the charm of a seasoned storyteller. The collection? A vibrant celebration of everything fans adore—bold prints, oversized tailoring, and sweaters in colors so bright they could light up a room. It was playful, personal, and unmistakably Paul Smith.
This wasn’t Smith’s first Milan rodeo—it was his second menswear show in the city. But what made this one stand out was its salon show format, a nod to the intimate presentations he witnessed as a young designer at Coco Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent’s ateliers in the 1970s. “I really wanted to do a salon show,” Smith explained. “In today’s corporate-dominated fashion world, being an independent brand feels rare—and deeply personal.”
Here’s where it gets controversial: While some might argue that revisiting archival designs is a safe move, Smith sees it as a bold collaboration across generations. Working with his new design director, Sam Cotton, he’s been diving into the brand’s 5,000-piece archive. “Sam will pull something out and say, ‘Look at this!’” Smith recalls. “And I’ll say, ‘I designed that in 1982.’ But then we rework it, and it feels fresh all over again.” Pieces like a jacket from 1999 and a rust-colored shirt Smith dyed himself on a gas cooker made a stunning reappearance, proving that timeless design knows no era.
But don’t think for a second that Smith is slowing down. At 80, he’s still the boss, arriving at the office at 6 a.m. every day. “Nothing’s changed,” he insists. Yet, like many luxury brands, Paul Smith has felt the post-pandemic pinch, with a 7% drop in turnover in 2024. And here’s the hard truth: Smith admits this year’s results won’t be stellar. “But we’re here, we’re working it out, and we’re going to be fine,” he says with unwavering optimism.
Meanwhile, Ralph Lauren is more than fine—it’s thriving. With a 11% sales increase in Q1 2025 and the viral trend of ‘Ralph Lauren Christmas,’ the brand’s preppy aesthetic is dominating the fashion landscape. Friday’s show, held in a palazzo Lauren purchased in 1999, was a love letter to the wealthy, WASPy lifestyle the brand has perfected since 1967. From weekend fleeces to opera-ready suits and ski holiday puffers, it was a showcase of timeless elegance. Even Lauren’s son, David, and A-listers like Tom Hiddleston were there to celebrate.
But here’s the question that’ll spark debate: As fashion leans into nostalgia, are brands like Paul Smith and Ralph Lauren simply playing it safe, or are they redefining what it means to be timeless? And with Ralph Lauren dressing Team USA for the Winter Olympics in February, is preppy style here to stay—or is it just having a moment?
What do you think? Is revisiting the past a creative triumph or a safe bet? Let’s debate in the comments—because in fashion, as in life, the most interesting answers are rarely black and white.
